Spring Pottery

Essays on handmade stoneware and the kitchens it ends up in

Pottery at Home

Stoneware and the Everyday Table

A stoneware bowl and a factory dinner plate are both fired clay, and they behave almost nothing alike once they are in daily use. The difference begins in the kiln.

Pottery at Home ยท About 5 minutes


A piece of handmade stoneware is an odd object to own. It is heavier than the plates sold in sets, it is rarely perfectly round, and the glaze does not repeat exactly from one pot to the next. None of that is a flaw in the work. It is a straightforward consequence of how stoneware is made and how hot it is fired, and once the reasons are clear the pots become much easier to choose and to live with.

What the word actually means

Stoneware is not a shape or a style. It is a description of what the clay becomes at temperature. Clay bodies are classified by the heat at which they mature, and stoneware matures high, usually somewhere between 1200 and 1300 degrees Celsius. At that heat the particles in the clay begin to fuse and a portion of the body turns glassy. Potters call this vitrification. The fired result is dense, it rings when tapped, and it absorbs very little water.

Earthenware, by contrast, matures several hundred degrees lower. It stays porous. That is why an unglazed terracotta pot sweats and why an earthenware dish will eventually take up water through a crazed glaze and stay damp for days. Porcelain sits at the other end, fired as high as stoneware or higher, whiter and more translucent because of what is in the clay rather than because of any difference in principle.

Why the weight is not an accident

The density that makes stoneware durable also makes it heavy. A thrown stoneware bowl carries more material than a pressed plate because it has to: a wall thrown on a wheel has to stand up while it is soft, and a foot ring has to carry the weight of whatever the bowl holds without flexing. Factory tableware is made by pressing a slab of clay over a mould, which permits a thinner and more even wall than a hand can pull.

A pot that survives twenty years of dishwashers and dropped spoons is not delicate work that got lucky. It was built heavy on purpose.

The practical result is that handmade stoneware suits the jobs where weight helps. A wide bowl that will be tossed full of salad benefits from a low centre of gravity. A pitcher that will be picked up with one wet hand benefits from a handle thick enough to grip. A mug with a heavy base stays warm longer and is harder to knock over.

Glaze is a second skin, not a coat of paint

The glaze on a stoneware pot is not a finish applied over the top in the way paint is applied to wood. It is a thin layer of glass that is formed in the kiln at the same time the body is fusing, and in a properly fitted glaze the two bond into one another at the interface. That bond is why a good stoneware glaze does not chip off in flakes and why it can be cut with a knife without scoring.

It also explains the variation. Glaze is a suspension of ground minerals in water. It goes on thicker where the pot was dipped twice, thinner over a sharp edge where it pulled away, and it moves as it melts. A rim where the glaze ran thin will fire a different colour from a hollow where it pooled. Two pots dipped in the same bucket on the same afternoon come out related rather than identical.

Choosing pieces that will get used

The pieces that stay in circulation in a kitchen tend to share a few qualities, and they are worth looking for.

Check the foot. Turn the pot over. The foot ring should be smooth enough not to scratch a table and wide enough that the pot does not rock. A base that has been finished carefully is a reliable indication that the rest of the pot was too.

Check the rim. Run a thumb around it. A rim thin enough to drink from comfortably but thick enough not to feel fragile is harder to throw than it looks, and it is the part of a mug or bowl that a person touches most often.

Check the balance full, not empty. A pitcher that feels well made when it is empty can be unusable when it holds two litres, because the handle is set too low or the spout is too far forward. If it is possible to lift the piece and imagine the weight, do it.

Check the interior glaze. Anything that will hold food or liquid should be glazed smoothly inside, with no bare patches and no rough runs that will trap residue.

Living with the results

Stoneware is made to be used, and the things that worry new owners are mostly not worth worrying about. Small variations in colour are normal. A slightly oval bowl is normal. Faint concentric lines on the inside are the potter's fingers recorded in the wall, and they are the clearest evidence that the pot was thrown rather than pressed.

What does deserve attention is thermal shock, which is the one way a sound stoneware pot is likely to fail in a kitchen. A dense body conducts heat unevenly when the change is sudden, and a cold dish dropped into a hot oven, or a hot dish set on a wet stone counter, can crack cleanly across. The habits that prevent it are simple and cost nothing, and they are worth learning early.

The rest is ordinary use. Wash it, stack it, put it in the oven within reason, and let it accumulate the small marks that come from being part of a kitchen rather than an ornament in a cabinet.